GARGOYLE GECKO CARE SHEET (Rhacodactylus auriculatus)
Gargoyle Geckos are a medium to large sized semi arboreal member of the Rhacodactylus genus. They grow to around 8-9 inches long and are usually quite chubby and robust in appearance. They may be very docile animals plus they tolerate handling very well. Gargoyle Geckos are slow moving and much less jumpy than most other Rhacodactylus geckos.
Gargoyle gecko enclosures should be taller rather than longer as gargoyles like to climb and prefer to be up from the cage floor. A good size tank for any hatchling or juvenile gargoyle gecko is actually a 10 gallon aquarium or terrarium. As the gecko matures you will need to increase how big the enclosure. Just one adult or even an adult pair can be housed in a 29 gallon aquarium or terrarium.
Gargoyle geckos must climb so provide plenty of cage furnishings including cork bark, driftwood, and artificial vines and plants. Gargoyle geckos tend to be aggressive towards one another and other cage mates so housing each animal individually is highly recommended.Eco Earth
For hatchling and young juveniles you should use paper towel for that cage bottom. This can avoid the geckos from becoming impacted from eating the bedding. When the gecko is 3-4 months old you can switch to Eco Earth or similar type coconut husk substrate. Larger geckos are much not as likely to produce problems from ingesting the bedding.
Temperature, Heating, and Lighting
Temperatures ought to be maintained between 72 and 82 degrees for most of the year. Gargoyle geckos will benefit from utilizing a small wattage basking heat lamp placed to one far end of the tank. Generally a 50 watt bulb will perform the job. The basking spot temperature must not exceed 85 degrees and care must be taken to make sure that the gecko can retreat with an area that is considerably cooler. UVB lighting can be used however is not 100% necessary. A 2. linear fluorescent or compact fluorescent bulb can provide lots of UVB and UVA should you choose to use one.
Gargoyle geckos like a humidity level around 50% with brief periods of higher humidity. Mist your gecko one or two times a day and enable the enclosure to dry up between mistings. Humidity level should be able to reach 80 to 100% pursuing the misting routine and must return to normal within 2-three hours. Maintaining proper humidity is key optimal gargoyle gecko take care of health and shedding.
Diet and Feeding
In the wild gargoyle geckos eat fruits, nectars, insects, small invertebrates, and even small mammals like pinky mice.
Most gargoyle geckos in captivity do great eating the Pangea Fruit Mix Gargoyle Gecko Food ApricotPangea Complete Gecko Diets. You can also provide dusted and gutloaded insects once or twice every week or perhaps for adults an occasional frozen thawed pinky mouse. Gargoyle geckos often prefer larger prey items and may turn their nose up at smaller items. They can tackle a cricket that is about how big their head without problem. Dust any insects with an excellent calcium powder with vitamin D3 and ensure to give the crickets a good gut-load diet prior to offering those to your gecko.
Gargoyle geckos will drink droplets water that gather on the sides from the tank and plants. Some gargoyles will regularly drink plenty of water from the dish so you should always provide clean water as well as to mist the enclosure.
Gargoyle geckos are among the most handleable of all reptiles. These are typically quite docile and are not vulnerable to biting as long because they are handled properly. When choosing up a gargoyle gecko you would like to scoop instead of grab. You can coax them on to your hand by nudging their back end gently together with your other hand and they can walk right on. Should you grab them they will likely become frightened and can potentially bite, although the bite is not really terribly severe particularly with young animals. Once they have your hand they are going to usually sit still but if they think like moving you can walk them from hand to the other until they calm down. Some gargoyle geckos will leap so ensure you ready to catch them with your free hand. It is best to be sitting down on the floor at first until you get accustomed to their behavior. After several handling sessions your gecko will most likely sit still rather than leap whatsoever.
Baby Gargoyle Gecko Care
The care for babies is identical to for adults. You ought to pay close awareness of shedding as some gargoyles will shed all of their skin except your skin on their own toes. If this takes place you can place your gecko in to a ventilated container like a Tupperware dish, with a few moist paper towels to aid loosen your skin. After 20-half an hour go ahead and take gecko out and gently make an effort to remove the skin with a moist Q-tip. When the skin will not come easily do this again, usually do not force your skin off!
Determining the sex of gargoyle geckos takes a little practice. You can determine the sex of juveniles with good reliability employing a sexing loupe which can be like a magnifying glass. Male gargoyle geckos could have 3 or maybe more rows of pores visible on the underside just above the vent. Females may have a couple of rows of pseudo pores which is why it can be tricky at first. Pseudo pores with appear like pores but will not have access to the dark pin point in the center of the scale that actual pores have.
Incubation temperature appears to play a part in determining the sex of the hatchlings. Eggs incubated at temperatures of 70-75 produces more females and temperatures of 75-79 produces more males.
Breeding gargoyle geckos is rather easy, simply introduce a healthy adult female to some healthy adult male and they can breed. Since gargoyle geckos are really aggressive it is best to house the animals separately and only introduce the male to the females enclosure for a while at any given time. Breeding can be rather rough so keep a close eye upon them both since they are prone to get injured. Tail loss and other minor injuries are not only expected but they are unavoidable.
Eggs & Incubation
Gargoyle geckos will lay their eggs about 20-35 days after successful copulation. Produce an egg laying container that is certainly a minimum of 4-5 inches deep and loaded with a lightly moistened mixture of peat moss and vermiculite or similar substrate. You must be able to dig a tiny hole within the substrate without it caving in. Eggs are usually laid toward the bottom of the container sonfzn you need to dig through it every few days to determine if she has laid them.
When the eggs are laid, take them out and put them into an air tight container with moistened vermiculite, perlite, or SuperHatch. The egg laying medium ought to be moist to touch although not dripping with water. Eggs will hatch at room temperature provided it stays between 70-79 degrees.